On Iris Van Herpen’s runway, the stuff of dreams (or maybe even of a beautiful nightmare) is turned into a tangible reality. 

She displays dresses seemingly made of merely water, turns a brave model into a transmitter for thousands of volts of electricity and vacuum-packs others to function as a centerpiece to the rest of her creations.  Her designs begin as innovations of art and technology, and become clothing as they interact with the human form.

The designer’s relationship with movement and the body began with her study of ballet at a young age. While in school her passions transformed into a more tangible artistic outlet and she began to create hand-made wearable art. For her first few years as a designer she worked solely with her hands, shying away from even a sewing machine. But her work quickly took a turn towards a deep collaboration with the immense opportunities that technology can give to an artist.  Van Herpen uses technology to push the boundaries of what fashion can do and what fashion means.

“In all my work I try to make clear that fashion is an artistic expression, showing and wearing art”

Once the viewer moves beyond the sheer beauty of the intricate work that is before them, they are forced to assess what it means to adorn the body in such unexpected and technological forms. The intention is to marry traditional hand-made techniques with modern innovations; tools such as 3D printing, burnt metal weaving, laser cutting and metal silk.

Yes, these pieces are clothes and are exhibited on the runway, but they are also the type of work that goes straight to museums, and is lauded as a technological feat. Right now one dress is being featured at MAD Museum in NY as part of the “Out of Hand: Materializing the Postdigital” exhibition. Three years ago she was a leader in the 3D printing expedition, with one of her designs being named one of the 50 best inventions of the year by TIME magazine. There are also brave woman out there who wear and showcase the work, Lady Gaga and Bjork are fans of Van Herpen. 

The work thrives on collaborations with artists, architects, scientists, dancers and choreographers, milliners, graphic designers, musicians and technicians. The collaboration also is that between the human hands and the machines. It is a fashion that embraces and dissects our human relationship to the uncontrollable takeover of tech.